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Edited July 28 2021
As a complete amateur, you may be wondering what the steps really are and how tough it really is. Let’s start off by listing the steps. The real steps…. Aaaaalll of them.
Quite a few more steps than other tutorials might list, but we want you to understand what it really takes and what we actually do. Some of these steps we’re able to eliminate through the use of fancy machinery. One good example of this is cleaning the ducts. Because we use Festool Dust Extractors hooked up to our sanders, we barely have any dust and all our clients in Mississauga thank us. The dust extractor, in case you were wondering, is a HEPA filter Vacuum, which of course filters 99.98% of particles in the air. This allows is to reduce the amount of dust and comfortable serve clients with severe asthma.
[Here is an example of our Dust extractor hooked up to our coring drill, for drilling into asbestos containing walls. It’s held up with the suction of the dust extractor.]
To view our main page and see client testimonials, click here (Toronto GTA Page)
You’ve heard people talk about Asbestos all the time and how dangerous it can be if disturbed. This is correct. But did you know that Drywall contains silica? While not as harmful as asbestos, the consistent breathing in of silica dust can cause silicosis, which is severe cases can be disabling, or even fatal. The respirable silica dust can cause the formation of scar tissue in the lungs. This reduces your ability to take in oxygen. This is very similar to the effects of asbestos.
Just like lung diseases caused by asbestos, there is no cure for silicosis.
Let’s talk about this for a moment. If your drywall repair has come to be as a result of water damage in the home. It’s not a bad idea to check for mould and mildew. While the majority of inside walls and ceilings we inspect have no mould or mildew, it sometimes happens. Usually an indoor wall or ceiling, means one that separates two rooms or two floors rather than separating the inside of the home from the outside of the home. These spaces don’t usually have any insulation in them, meaning the cavity can dry up with reasonable speed. Interior walls and ceilings could, however, have sound proofing and fireproofing insulation. These retain water for a long time, this could cause mould. So it’s important to inspect first. If you find any wet insulation, you have to pull it out and keep pulling it out until there isn’t any wet insulation left. Drywall can be dried out if it isn’t in bad condition. Simply point fans or air movers at the opening and give it 2 or 3 days. If you have dehumidifiers, now it the time the bring them into the area and blast them as close to that opening as possible.
[Asbestos Fibres: Not actually green]
We’ve written quite a few articles about this on this site already, so we won’t belabour the point here. If your home was built between the early 1920 and 1990, It’s worth getting tested. Yes, we know that the legislation that prohibits the use of asbestos in residential properties went into effect on Jan 1 1986. That doesn’t change the fact that it was still found in drywall compound in homes ranging all the way into 1990. Home builders had a lot of inventory to use up and somebody may have been paid off to turn a blind eye. We’ve tested homes between 1986 and 1990 that had asbestos, so we know first-hand. Asbestos can also be found in Popcorn ceilings or Stipple Ceilings.
People wonder all the time “do I really have to put 3 coats on, or can I get away with 2?”. Well, let’s put it this way. If the pro’s put 3 on and they’re experts, chances are, you’ll need at least 3 also. There are different levels of Finishing, 1 through 5. Your home is likely a level 4 finish. Commercial properties with a High Lustre paint finish will often ask their tapers/mudders for a level 5 finish. That means there is another skim coat on top of the 3 coats… so 4 coats on top of the tape.
[Pro-tip: If you’re going to be sanding, wear a hat]
It's important to be very gently when sanding. If done right, the feathering out of the edges of the patch are very gradual. When passing the sanding sponge over these, you want to be very careful to not file this fine mud back down to the wall. You want a very light touch. The middle of the patch can be sanded a little harder if you have some more noticeable imperfections. Be careful however, as you may end up ruining the whole patch. If you're missing a bit of mud, it's best not to try and take the shortcut of trying to sand it down. Instead, grab your hoc and trowel and give the area another skim!
Did you know you can buy Level 5 primer? This is a thick/viscous primer that help hide imperfections in your mudding. It will also help fill in those little pin-holes. If you're planning on doing all this yourself, you may consider investing in a can of this stuff. You'll be glad you did.
There are many other things we could discuss such as the finesse required to feather out a patch properly. We could probably write 5 pages about that alone, but we'll leave that for another time. Should you have any questions or would like to hire us to do your drywall patching instead, don't hesitate to call us. If you have any need for drywall repairs in Mississauga, North York, Vaughan or the rest of Toronto and the GTA, we'd be happy to help.
We're proudly Servicing Almost all of the Greater Toronto Area (GTA)
We're located at
3600 Highway 7
Vaughan Ontario L4L 0G7Canada [Toronto]
Phone: (647) 689-5954
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